Channel Islands

I spent two nights on Santa Cruz Island, part of the Channel Islands offshore from Santa Barbara. It cost about eighty dollars for a round trip boat ride through Island Packers, the only company offering service to the Channel Islands. The islands have become a national park, and host a variety of unique wildlife. Though nearly extinct twenty years ago, the Island Fox has made a resurgence on Santa Cruz Island. During my forty-eight hours on the island, I saw at least ten. They are not particularly fearful of people, and will attempt to gain food from visitors to the island.

The boat ride takes about an hour to travel the eighteen miles from Ventura to the island, and the captain made brief stops to observe dolphins and provide us with quick education on these impressive mammals. We arrived first at the southern harbor, released most of the passengers, and continued to Prisoner's Harbor further north. The park ranger boarded the vessel, and introduced himself, knowing that I was camping. I enjoyed speaking to him, and he provided me with useful information, such as the importance of keeping foxes out of the tent, for they will search your belongings and likely pee.

Most passengers were going to the island just for the day, and I felt privileged to have the freedom to call the island home for a short time. The campsite was just shy of four miles from the harbor, and the hike was difficult with my heavy gear. Photo opportunities were continuous and I took over a hundred pictures while I was there. I expected that perhaps I would see no one else after I embarked on the trail, but shared the campground with a young couple from the U.K.

As I fell asleep my first night on the island, I realized that the following day would be five years since my father had died. It seemed a very fitting commemoration, for my father had an intimate connection with boats and the ocean. In fact, I still own the small sailboat I inherited from my dad, though I have not used it since his death.

I had been tempted to stay on the island longer than two nights, but was unsure I could properly prepare and bring enough food and water. As it turned out, I brought just enough water for two days, about six quarts. During my free day I hiked pack-free and sat above Chinese Harbor, and impressive U-shaped cove. Several surfers engaged the waves, using their boat as a port.

When I arrived back at Prisoner's Harbor the third day, I felt very comfortable on the small world that is twenty-two miles long. The boat ride home was peaceful in spite of the heavier surf, compared with the glass-like water of the morning we'd left. There was a stunning sunset from the beach in Ventura when I returned to the mainland. Driving a car was slightly foreign. Though I'd be gone a relatively short time, I had re-calibrated. I spent a disconcerting amount of time trying to decide what type of beer to buy before returning to wine country in Los Olivos. The world of buying things becomes strange to the hermit.

The wind picked up as I left the coast and ascended Chumash Highway. I was glad to have a house to return to. Though the weather had been idyllic on the island, it is December and warmth and sun are no guarantee.

Chinese Harbor, Santa Cruz Island